How's the new site?


Limited Slip Diff PDF Print E-mail
Written by Peter   
Sunday, 03 February 2008
New Diff, New Bushings, and some Powder Coating to finish it off!


I found this rearend from an XR4x4 from a guy in England called the RS Centre. If you want to see if they by chance have some more, their number, as dialed, is 011-44-1709-770-222. Tell them you're interested in the 7"

The ones from the XR4x4 are 3.92 rear ends, for pleanty of torque. Hopefully my tranny and rear end combo will provide a comfortable yet power driving experience.


Bolts for cover are 10mx1.5x34mm

They can be purchased from McMaster Carr


According ot what I have heard and read, this is a fairly simple bolt in. It's probabyl going to happen this weekend, so I'll post pics and comments on how it went!

Well we started the project! As many already know, the half shaft bolts are a bear to get out. We broke two torx trying with the assembly in the car. I want to replace all of the bushings in the rear assembly anyhow, and so we just dropped the entire rear assembly. DO NOT TRY THIS unless you have at least one other buddy to help you. Fortunatley, Chad and Sean were there to do a lot of the lifting while I was undernieth removing bolts. Not only is the assembly heavy, it's cumbersome because it piviots and flops around!

Halfshaft Bolt Removal:

The factory halfshafts are torx T-40 bolts that have endured 20 years of weather. Add that to the fact that the factory torqued them hard, and they are going to be in no mood to come loose. This would be fine on any other occassion, but for this project we needed them out!

As stated above, we removed the entire rear assembly. This was surprisingly easy to do. The hardest part was probabyl removing the brake lines. Fortunately, my tranny was also out, allowing easy access to the emergency brake. I don't know how I would have done it with the tranny in.

To get the halfshafts out, we took a Dremel Tool and gound two flat edges on the bolts' heads. We then took a pretty nice and strong (no flex) adjustable wrench and got it adjusted so tight that we had to tap it with a hammer to get it on the bolts. To hold the halfshaft, we used a pipewrench and someone with more mass then what I could push. We then attached a bar of metal to the handle of the adj. wrench and pushed HARD. Each of the twelve bolts came off with a *snap* sound that was climatic and fun! The pictures should help you understand if there are any vauge spots in this description.

**UPDATE** Today (3/29/2004) I took the sandblasted parts to the powdercoaters! Hopefully in a week they'll be back and I can start reassembling stuff!

**UPDATE** The parts are back from the powdercoaters, and they look great! I took them to Valley Precision in Waynesboro, VA. I know the owner pretty well, so he gave ma a fairly good deal on the process.

It's important when powdercoating to mask off any threads or mating srufaces. THe paint is pretty thick, and it's MUCH mroe durable then normal spray paint. As a result, it will really mess up threads if it gets in them.





Reassembly was a great day's project - one that makes you feel like you got a lot done and are really making progress.

Body Beam Bushings:
I began by getting the stubborn body beam bushings back in place. I accomplished this with a rig that you see below. I took a 3" Sch. 40 PVC coupling and cut it in half. Next, I drilled a 1/2" hole through a 2x4, and layed that across the pipe. I put a long carrage bolt through the piece of wood, wtih a washer between the head of the carrage bolt and the wood. This allowed me to get an 1/2" open end wrench on the square part of the bolt to hold it still.
Next, I put this system on the beam as shown, put 5 washers on the other end, got a deep set socket, put it on my impact wrench, and let'r rip!

Remember to put a lot of antizieze or other rubber-safe lube on the busihing and on the metal. This will help it go in a little, but it'll prevent it from squeaking.

I had to leave the metal center in the bushing so the washers, although very large, didn't get sucked through the bushing. Wear as much protection as you can when doing this in case the pipe exploeds, etc. I had on a full face shield, ear plugs, and my welding gloves.

Next step was to install the XR4x4 Limited Slip Diff! This bolts in pretty well, and the only "real" fabrication needed is to make a spacer. Also, the bolts aren't really long enough anymore since the XR4x4 usues mostly through-bolts. To solve this, I got a 1/2" piece of Grade 5 "allthread," cut it to length, and placed two stainless nyloc nuts on it. I made the spacer from a 1/2" bolt coupling. I put it on the drill press and drilled out the threads so that it'd slide over the "allthread." I then measured and cut the spacer to the correct length. I'm really happy with how everything turned out!

I got some new halfshafts from BAT. I also got better halfshaft bolts from MC2 Racing.

I built the new system on my bench, and with the help of a ceiling mounted hoist, put the entire assembly on the ground. I then put a creeper under one side, a rolling stool on the other, and a 2x4 in the middle, and scooted it under the car. I lifed each side and attached the shocks so that it was suspended a ltitle. I then jacked up the rear diff and attached it. Next, I removed the shock bolts but supported the arms with 2x4's so it wasnt' too hard on the rearend mount. I put in the springs, then attached the body beam mounts. These were pretty tough, I had to actually file a little bit of the bushing down so that they would grip enough threads to go in. Once these were in and solid, I jacked up the back part of the arms so they compressed the springs, and I reattached the shocks. That's it!  (yeah, "that's it!".  This was a heck of a project....)








Last Updated ( Sunday, 03 February 2008 )
< Prev   Next >
Joomla Templates by Joomlashack
Joomla Template Design